Typical downtown Beira: brightly colored Mcel, Nido, and Milo ads painted on a wall. Yet the apartment block is unpainted and likely doesn’t have any electricity or running water. Someone once told me that you have to buy a special permit in Beira in order to paint a house, so no one does because they can’t afford the permits. Therefore, most of the buildings look like this. I don’t know how true that is. I would imagine most people don’t want to purchase the paint either. I’d probably want electricity more than I would want a pretty exterior.
This was my first trip to Maquinino, a neighborhood just beyond central Beira, where there are several shops on one block that sell capulanas (colorful, patterned cloth wraps). Much later I learned that cheaper and more brightly colored capulanas are sold in the market behind our old office, from little stalls instead of in shops.